Black sand beaches in Dominica

Walk for youth

I went on a walk for youth yesterday morning. We left town at 4:30am to drive to the north of the island. We hiked for 4 hours with matching t-shirts, stopping in villages to collect donations for a new youth project to be implemented soon.
It was a great way to see the countryside and a part of the island I had not seen yet. This is just one of the views from a portion along the shore.

Making cassava farine... but better yet, new friends.

This was a great day. The 2 young people who run this cassava mill spend from 3am-6pm making flour from cassava. The process is long, and I was thrilled that they invited me to help them for a few hours. I ground cassava through the mill (shown in this picture) and grated coconut for 2 hours. I didn't get to stay for the end product (cassava pancakes) but the smell of them cooking over a huge wood oven element was enough to make me buy a package in the market the next day. The man didn't speak too much english so I got to work on my Creole (...very basic at this point!) and I have become good friends with the girl. We are going to a waterfall in her village next week.

Relaxation by the river bed

He calls it 'mon petit paradis' (my little paradise) and I think you can understand why. This part of the river forms the South border of his farm property. After a long morning of weeding, we took a nap on the rocks. This is one of the most generous men I have ever met. He is an amazing farmer, and perhaps even a better cook! There's nothing like having a meal prepared entirely from your own garden. I've spent several nights sleeping at his modest home in the countryside, one night falling asleep with a firefly dancing in my bedroom. Its beauty was undeniable, but I can remember wishing at the time that fireflies could eat mosquitos!

After a month in the nature island

I know it’s necessary to start with an apology for being such an inconsistent blogger. Even some of my friends in Dominica who follow the posts have become concerned that I have gotten lost in the bush so I can only imagine that those back home and elsewhere are wondering if the Caribbean sea has swallowed me whole. In fact, no need for me to imagine: your ‘angry’ emails speak loudly, and I know it’s time I spend a moment to update. I think the fact that I just spent 19 hours sleeping straight speaks to how busy DA life has been…
I’m saddened to think that a whole month has already slipped by but I am feeling blessed by the strength of the friendships that warm my heart and the adventures that keep my feet running daily. It still only feels like yesterday that I landed in Dominica, but looking back, I realize how much has changed both for me and around me. Again, I can’t hope to cover everything but I’ll divide this entry into the Zen head-heart-and-hand to highlight some of my favourite memories this past month.
Head: thoughts and inspirations
Here, they call it Montagne Souffle which translated from Creole to English means the Whistling Mountains. It refers to the time early in the morning and just before sunset when the mountains explode in sounds from the birds, bugs and reptiles. I’ve had the pleasure of spending several hours in the countryside with strangers-become-friends, and learning from their experiences in the whistling forest. The farmers say that there is gold in their soil, and it’s not hard to believe. Fruits rot on the ground because the trees bear too much to harvest, and yet the majority of young Dominicans hope to live a life in the city or off-island because that’s where they see a future of prosperity. Unless the mentality towards a life in farming changes here, the aging farming community is concerned that more and more lands will become idle and that the food import bill will continue to grow. Farmers talk about changing consumer tastes in the city, and one quote that will stick with me for a long time was a friend who referred to KFC—the biggest landmark in town— as Killing Fields and Children. The farmers are so proud to be farmers, but thoughts about the future sustainability of the ag sector in Dominica troubles many who have invested their lives in the productive sector. Although agriculture has been the backbone of this country’s economy in the past, the development of tourism seems to be stifling development of the agricultural sector. I gain some hope about the future of the ag sector from a handful of strong grassroots movements and farm-community leaders that believe in strengthening the productive sector, but I know they are fighting a tough uphill battle. Weekly text messages are sent out to every cell phone in Dominica that read “Tourism is everybody’s business. Do your part in island development”. Sometimes, there are up to 5 cruise ships docked at port in Dominica. I have a nice birds-eye view of town and the bay front from my apartment porch up the mountainside, and although it is hard to understand the scale short of seeing it, the length and breadth of one cruise ship is by size comparable to the whole capital city! One cruise ship that docks every week is called “Carnival Victory”, and I question what the “victory” really is. I shutter to think that it’s over Dominica…
Heart: touching moments
Even before leaving, I knew one of the most important parts of this trip would be to feel, at least in part, integrated into Dominican society. Although I know I’m not there yet, subtle daily changes make me realize that slowly, I am getting closer. I don’t think I will ever forget the day that a group of boys in a pick-up stopped along the side of the road to give me a ride to the next village. Trust me, riding in the back of pick-ups—called vans here—is an acquired skill! The boys tell me that a bruised bum from dips in an out of potholes and sore forearms from hanging on too tight around the bends is something they all experienced when they were 9 and first allowed to sit in the back of rides. They laugh and tell me by the end of the summer, I should be used to it…I’m not so sure yet. Hitching is very common here, so the ride itself was not the highlight. As we pulled up to my stop, I thanked them for the lift and , they invited me to play football with them the next day! Football isn’t a girls’ game here, so to say the least, I was thrilled for the invite. I have moved apartments now to be closer to town to facilitate my research, so I am no longer really part of a village. No matter, integration continues: in town, some cat calls from the boys have been replaced with “Hey Ras, you safe?” [Translation: Hey Rasta (term of endearment for me… definitely not a true Rastafarian), how are you?”]. I’ve made incredible friendships with some of the extension officers and some girls in the countryside. Already, I dread the day I will have to leave.
One more short anecdote that really touched my heart last Thursday. I was travelling around with an extension officer to some farms. We stopped at a farm deep in the bush where an older man raises rabbits and chickens for meat and grows vegetables for the local market. He had been on national television last year for his success in production. When we arrived, after a quick introduction, he lit up in anger about how he still had not received the government assistance that he had been promised 6 months earlier to extend his production. Almost in tears, he explained that he could no longer make profit on his farm and every week, he was losing money because of higher production costs. He told us that he didn’t care about being rich, that all he wanted was $50/week to fill his truck with fuel to bring him to and from his farm. As he is telling us about his struggle, he cuts off several broccoli heads for each of us to bring home. The next day, at the market in town, I realize that the amount of broccoli he gave us could have at least filled half his gas tank for the week. His generosity, in the face of such challenge, has been one of the most touching parts of my experience here. Although this day stands out in my mind, his kindness is shared by most in the countryside: on almost all my farm visits, I have been treated to lunch, glasses of wine poured from bottles saved for ‘special occasions’, bags of produce to take home, and invitations for week-end stays.
Hand: actions and activities
I feel so lucky that my research takes me through hidden havens in the countryside. For the most part, I have been tagging along with extension officers from the Ministry of Agriculture on farm visits and attending some interesting ag project meetings. Despite its small size, it’s very tricky to get around in Dominica reliably so I have spent some nights sleeping in the countryside (often with no electricity or running water, just great company, amazing food, and lots of mosquitos!). I don’t have any kind of daily routine but some of the highlights:
-helping with farm work. I have learned so much about the technical side of tropical agriculture from these experiences. Sometimes I am so clueless, which makes for very good laughs in their gardens… For instance, I was trying to harvest some mangoes from a tree and ended up in the river. Clumsy for life I think. I have a few friends that joke that they need to always stand behind me, ready to catch me on my fall, because of the amount of times I’ve tripped in the bush. I swear, it’s not my fault: the views are too pretty to be always looking down at my feet.
-Trafalgar Falls. It’s one of the most famous tourist sites here but going with Dominicans made for a very ‘off-the-beaten-track’ experience. They led me on a scramble over a landslide that fell about 5 years ago. Once across, we got to enjoy a swim in the pool at the bottom of the waterfall. The swim was refreshing, but the picture was perfect. At the base of the waterfall forms a circular rainbow! I stood right in the middle and knew I had found Dominica’s treasure chest! I will add the pic as soon as I get it off a friend’s camera.
-Hot sulphur springs. These are a big hang out spot for the Dominicans. Afternoon and night, I’ve spent very relaxing hours in these hot pools in the rainforest. Good friends and great stories, and apparently the minerals in the pools are good for health too.
-River baths! This is generally my favourite part of the day! Although I don’t get the chance every day, often when we are out in the countryside, we stop by a river for a quick dip. Dominicans say that you can spend every day of the year in a different river (the island boasts that it has 365 rivers).
-Local music. My friends have taken me out to a few bars and shows for amazing Dominican shows. From Calypso to Soca to Reggae, I love it all.
I will have to leave it at that for today with apologies for the lack of details and the poor writing. My friends are taking me to Canefest now for more live music and good food through the afternoon and night! Next week is filled with more interviews in the countryside…
I hope this finds everyone back home in good health and happiness. Hoping you all keep in touch, and I will do a better job here on in with updates. No excuses but moving apartments was no easy feat and nights in the countryside are often without power and internet. Big hugs all around, Irie (directly translated to ‘awesome’ in Dominica, but often used as a goodbye).

Taking a break to enjoy the view after mangos.

Sunday hike

Sunday is a day-off in Dominica for most. They spend the whole morning at church and almost all shops are shut down and buses dont run. A few friends and a I spent the day hiking a small mountain on the Southern tip of the island (the orange line on the picture shows most of the hike path). From the top, in the middle of a farmer's pasture with steep cliffs on both side, we could see both the Caribbean sea and the Atlantic ocean. We had packed lunch but didnt have enough belly room to eat it: all the farmers along the way stuffed us with their fresh produce, the best being the proud 97 year old man who offered us each 10 bananas and wouldnt have it if we didnt take them all!

Baptism by rain and sunburn

A week of Ecofest at Rosalie Rainforest seems to have just flown by already with new friends, great research contacts, two apartments, and a bag full of muddy clothes to show for it. Every day brought new surprises and adventures, but the rains and strong winds were something I could count on reliably all week. We all became accustomed to a constant moist and muddy coating from head to toe. The rains were so strong that they swept away the concrete bridge in and out of the ecolodge (forging a river up to my hips became as familiar as brushing my teeth twice daily…), and also downed the power tower and phone/internet poles in the area. Overnight, computers, cars and phones became useless and we were entirely disconnected from the rest of the island and the rest of the world for three days. Strangers at the ecolodge became friends, and everyone’s spirits were uplifted when together, we rebuilt (to a certain extent) the bridge with boulders and dirt. So far, my experience has been unforgettable, not despite the crummy weather but I think in part, because of it. Although at the time it didn’t seem so great, I can now even look back with a smile and a good laugh on the night I slept in the pouring rain because the tin roof of our dorm had been destroyed (to my luck, only in the corner where I slept!). Nothing beats trying to fall asleep to the comforting tic-tic-tic-tic sound of rain drops on a tin roof covering my friends in bunks right next to me from the elements, while simultaneously being soaked by torrential rains myself…
The workshops and conference talks at the fest showcased some of Dominica’s ‘big thinkers’ and lots of grassroots movements responsible for the planning and management behind some of the ‘sustainable development’ on the island. I’m most excited about my contact with Dominica’s Organic Agriculture Movement (DOAM) and with Nico, a Frenchman who has moved to the island and started an organic veggie co-op. DOAM is trying to strengthen an agricultural transition to organics and if you can believe it, with the backing of the government towards the development of an international model of sustainable agriculture, starting with 10% of total production certified in 10 years. In my spare time this summer, DOAM has asked me to help with their cause and I’m excited to do whatever I can. As for Nico, he is acting as a catalyst towards sustainable and profitable agriculture in his poor rural village by facilitating new markets for farmers in organics. I will live in his house and meet the farmers in his village. Not only is his farm tucked in the valley of two lush mountain peaks, his house is on the edge of a ridge overlooking the sea! I may never come home… Just to give you an idea, Dominica still has 90% of its rainforest, covering 67% of the island. Heaven dressed in green, right?
Despite its small size, travelling in Dominica is not straightforward at all but I have made it to the capital now a few times to meet an extension worker, Delroy. He has offered me his father’s place as an apartment in town when I need it and I will spend time with him in his district meeting farmers (and with some government, marketing and NGO contacts I have made). He took me up to the hills with two busloads of farmers to show struggling farmers from the East coast the more successful vegetable production techniques from the West coast. Already, I have 12 phone numbers from farmers eager to talk to me for my research. Rural poverty is growing rapidly in Dominica, with figures now at 40% of total island population living with less than US$2 per day. But for me, these stats really don’t represent the true story here. Despite the fact that, according to the extension officers from the ministry of ag, these farmers on this training day are amongst the most poor, if not the poorest, on the island, they gave me no indication of struggle. They were so proud of what they had, which to them was often the fertility of the soil they squat on. One older man said to me “No need for that paper and those coins, in Dominica, man, hapiness is direct… direct from land to mouth.” He passed me a carrot he had just picked, and bit into one himself. Later that day, I saw the mural above on the side of a farm along a ridge in the mountains. My heart was warmed by the farmer's spirit…and my shoulders were burnt! Finally, sunshine in Dominica all day with temperatures that feel like 37C!!! More sunscreen needed for this redhead…

Half an hour hike to my bathtub for the week... well worth it

The beach at the end of our jogs

I can’t believe I get to call this home for the summer…

After a long flight with only a few small hiccups (the funniest being that I managed to switch belts with the man behind me in the security line. It wasn’t until the customs line that we realized the mishap… it made for a good laugh at 5:00am), I was thrilled to finally land in Dominica. It’s been described as a tropical iceberg of vegetation because of its central rainforest that covers its steep north-south mountain range. From the plane windows, it was almost impossible to see the runway hidden within the dense green slopes and under the fog of the cloud forests in the mountain peaks.
My cabbie, Owen, had some great stories to share about the island on our way from the airport to the ecolodge, but I think we really only started to get to know each other when his car got stuck on a flooded muddy road on the way up the mountain. It wasn’t until we were both essentially covered in mud that we were able to continue on in the car. Just our luck, it started to pour rain so not only were we muddy, we were absolutely drenched. Without a hint of sarcasm, this was a perfect start to my rainforest experience.
The adventure didn’t stop there: once at the ecolodge base, I had to hike up to my dorm. This was no joke of a hike! It’s not vertical, but close to it and for anyone who’s done the Grouse Grind in Vancouver, I’d say it’s comparable. Only a 15 minute climb, but with a 50 pound pack, I was ready for a shower at the top. No need, it was still pouring rain! After a great dinner with some other travelers, I fell asleep to rain on a tin roof and a fire fly circling the lodge.
The rainforest is magical: I spent yesterday afternoon hiking up a river through to a tributary which, once we climbed high enough, led to a waterfall draining into a deep pool just perfect for a swim before the climb/swim/slide back down. Although yesterday was sunny, today it rained like I have never experienced before. There were even warnings for flash floods in the area! Dominicans call the rain liquid sunshine, and I can now understand why. There’s something so refreshing about being under it. To take full advantage, a new friend and I went for a jog to the beach at the ocean. Instead of bright white sand, Dominica mainly has dark black sand beaches. This was a treasure… picture coming soon!
Other than that, I’ve been participating in an ecofest here that has taken a bit of a slow start because of the rains and road conditions… no matter, nothing beats sustainability workshops and discussions in the middle of a rainforest, all power generated off-grid from the sun and wind, and evening reggae performances by local musicians. I’ve met some really welcoming Dominicans who have come to the Fest and so far, I think the best part has been sharing stories over Kubulis (the locally brewed beer). Perhaps it goes without saying, but my prelim nerves have settled: despite growing up worlds apart, we all laugh at the same jokes. Good news, I have my first farmer interview booked for Tuesday… soon I’ll post a little blurb about my research because a few of you have been asking.
Pictures to come, they're just taking too long to load on rainforest internet!